Photo by McCluskey 2002An often overlooked aspect of surfing is the experienced surfer's observation skills when out in the water. It speaks powerfully to our primal and ancient connection with the natural world.
We've all seen the seasoned local who is simply dialed in to the spot and conditions - he/she knows where to sit, and knows the boils, currents, and obstacles to look out for. After some solid experience with surfing and a particular spot, you become that seasoned local. You scan the horizon with purpose, in tune with the sea and swells, moving frequently to meet the forming waves at just the right time. It is a wonderful feeling...
4 comments:
So true, so true
And if your not that guy just follow him! haha!
That always works too, seamouse!
word
it's those surfers that get the most waves
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