granny

Photo by Grannis

About 5 years ago I attended a Surfrider event in Newport Beach. The guest of honor was LeRoy Grannis, the legendary surf photographer. I took the opportunity to have him sign a copy of his great book, Photo: Grannis. These are the wise and simple words he wrote: "To Jeff - Hang on to the surfing lifestyle. It will keep you happy and healthy. LeRoy Grannis" Well, I don't live in a beach town these days so I don't know if I'm honestly living a "surfing lifestyle." But he is right - surfing still keeps me happy and healthy. And I guess it's forever in my blood now, 'cause looking at surf images still gets me fired up the same way it did as a kid...