Friday, May 16, 2008
the flail factor
It occurred to me while surfing today at Oregon's most popular cove that beginners here will forever flail, unless they work really hard at it or surf elsewhere a lot. The waves here are just too unpredictable, unforgiving, and just plain bad for learning to surf. But that's a good thing for the rest of us seasoned surfers. The beginners here are full of stoke and friendliness for the most part, they don't take it very seriously, and when it's good they can't even make it out to the break zone. It all works out quite well...
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