Photo by Colvin - Summer 1997, Topanga Canyon
One my favorite feelings in surfing is the drive down the line on a sizeable wave, flying past or over a section. The board above drove well, and I miss it (cracked in two after about ten years of abuse). It was an off-the-shelf custom that somebody changed their mind on, an 8'6" Stewart thruster pintail with a concave nose, wings, and double channels. I've thought about having a copy shaped because it was just so damn FUN and versatile, and I never see boards quite like it. I occasionally took it out on head high to DOH waves and it almost performed like a shortboard when given some speed. It handled beach break barrels, floaters, gouging cutbacks, even cross-stepping nose rides - it would make a fine one-and-only desert island board.
6 comments:
......cool.
Really nice shot Jeff. There is a big case here for the all rounder. Big waves, small waves, slop, hollow... always fun.
Nice Ride Gazelle, wonder if I've surfed along side you at some point.
sounds like you scored yesterday and a longish hike paid off? Lefts or right? Figure there was something somewhere. Looked to be a little more swell yesterday than previous days. I had plans to dawny a low key spot but skateboarding and margarita's took me down :( BTW thanks for the link.
Dub-
Mick - thanks. An all rounder is a nice way of keeping it simple (and fun!)
Patch - I wonder, too. I spent a lot of time at the 'bu and Colony as well. Mostly from '92 through '99.
Sorry everybody about the delay in comments being posted. I'm a computer idiot.
Oh, yeah, and how could I forget Dume and Staircase and Leo Carillo and County Line, among others...
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